Portable Ramps for Thresholds, Steps and Bathroom Doors

Why thresholds matter

Walkers and wheelchairs need to roll or lift across any rise. A rollator's small front wheels catch on even a 2 cm lip and can stop suddenly, throwing the user forward. A person who shuffles may not lift the toes enough to clear the edge. A person who is looking down at the floor may not see a low step at all. In the bathroom, the raised sill often sits right where the person is turning, wet and tired, so trips there are common.

Ramps help:

• Wheelchair users who need a smooth path.
• Walker and rollator users who cannot lift the frame over a step.
• People who shuffle, such as those with Parkinson's disease.
• Carers pushing a wheelchair or a commode, who need to avoid jolts.
• People with weak legs for whom stepping over is tiring.

See rollators on Indian pavements and the stairs, steps and thresholds guide for wider thinking on steps.

Types of portable ramp

Threshold ramp (wedge). A short, solid wedge of rubber, plastic or aluminium, placed against a door sill or low step. It covers heights from about 1 to 8 cm. Rubber threshold ramps are inexpensive, heavy and stay put. They suit door tracks, bathroom sills and kerbs.

Modular rubber ramp. Sections that interlock, so you can build a ramp to a height of 5 to 20 cm. Useful for patios, kerbs and small steps, and can be extended or shortened.

Folding aluminium ramp. A lightweight, hinged plate that folds in half or like a suitcase. It is made for portability, and lengths run from 60 cm to more than 2 m. Suitable for one or two steps. Check the weight rating.

Telescopic or channel ramps. Two parallel rails that adjust in length. They are used for vehicles and for steps. They need a wheelchair with the right wheel spacing and are not suitable for walkers.

Suitcase or single-piece ramps. A single sloped platform with side edges. Easier for walkers and wheelchairs, but heavier.

Fixed concrete or wood ramps are not portable, but may be needed for permanent steps. A mason or carpenter can build them.

Bathroom ramps for shower trays. Some manufacturers make a small ramp for shower tray edges, but their suitability depends on the tray and the floor. Check with a therapist before using one in a wet area.

Slope: the most important number

A ramp is only safe if its slope is gentle enough. The common rule is a gradient of 1:12, meaning a rise of 1 cm for every 12 cm of length. So:

• A 5 cm step needs a ramp about 60 cm long.
• A 10 cm step needs about 120 cm.
• A 15 cm step needs about 180 cm.

A steeper slope may be acceptable for a short rise or for an attendant-assisted ramp, but it is harder to climb and dangerous to descend, and a wheelchair can tip. For a person who self-propels, a 1:12 slope is often tiring, and gentler slopes of 1:15 or 1:20 are preferable. The slope is the ratio of rise to length, not the angle.

For very small thresholds, a short wedge with a steeper slope is generally fine, because the rise is small. A 2 cm wedge only 15 to 20 cm long is common. If your parent walks with a frame or rollator, test it.

Measuring

1. Measure the rise, from the lower floor to the top of the step or sill, with a tape and a straight edge. 2. Measure the run, the space available in front of the step for the ramp's length. 3. Measure the width of the door or the step, and the width of the walker or wheelchair. The ramp surface should be at least as wide as the wheels, and wider is better. 4. Check landings, the flat areas at the top and bottom. A ramp needs a flat space at each end for turning and stopping. A 1.2 m by 1.2 m landing is a common recommendation for a wheelchair. 5. Note the surface type, such as tile, marble, concrete or carpet, to check grip. 6. Think about the door. If the door opens over the ramp, check that it can still open.

In small Indian bathrooms, the space on the bathroom side of the sill may be a few centimetres only. A ramp that extends into the room can block the door or the toilet. A small wedge may be the only option; consider removing the sill if the plumbing allows, with a floor drain or a water barrier.

Choosing a ramp: what to look for

Load rating. The ramp must be rated to carry the weight of the user and the wheelchair, walker or commode. Many ramps are rated at 200 to 300 kg, but check the label. Ramps that carry a powered chair need a much higher rating.

Surface. A ribbed, grooved or gritted surface grips wheels and shoes, particularly when wet. A smooth aluminium sheet is slippery. Add anti-slip tape if needed, taking care that it does not catch walker feet.

Edges. Raised side edges stop wheels slipping off. Rounded, bevelled edges at the top and bottom allow wheels to roll on and off smoothly, and reduce the tripping risk.

Fixing. The ramp should not slide. Rubber ramps stay put by their weight and grip. Aluminium ramps may have rubber pads under them. Where it matters, fix to the floor with screws or a strong adhesive, or use a model with a lip that hooks over the step.

Weight and portability. Lightweight ramps are easy to move, but can slip. Heavy rubber ramps are stable but hard to carry. Pick according to whether the ramp stays put or is moved.

Colour and contrast. For people with poor eyesight, choose a ramp that contrasts with the floor, or add a contrast strip at the edges. A black rubber ramp on a light tile floor is clear.

Material. Rubber is durable and non-slip but can smell, perish in the sun and leave marks on floors. Aluminium is light and weather-proof. Plastic and recycled rubber work for low heights. For outdoors, check UV resistance and drainage.

Water drainage. A ramp on a wet floor should have holes or channels so water does not pool.

Certificate and testing. Look for stated test standards and load ratings, rather than unverified claims.

Fitting and checking

• Place the ramp square to the step, with the lower end resting flat on the floor, and the upper end lying firmly on the sill or step.
• Check for gaps and rock, and shim if needed.
• Do a trial run with the walker, wheelchair or carer's help. Roll up and down both ways, with a helper stand-by.
• Check the door still closes and opens.
• Check regularly that the ramp has not moved or developed cracks.
• Clean the surface, as dirt and water reduce grip.
• Check under it for moisture and mould in the monsoon.

Safety tips

• Do not use a ramp as a step-over for people who can walk and are steady, unless they find it helpful. A ramp can be a trip hazard to the unwary.
• Mark the edges with contrast tape if the ramp is a different height from the floor.
• Do not leave a ramp where it can slide on wet floors.
• Keep a clear space at the top and bottom.
• For wheelchairs, watch for tipping if the ramp is too steep. Ask the carer to descend backwards or use the correct technique; a therapist can show it.
• Never use a ramp meant for a wheelchair as a bridge for a vehicle without checking the rating and the fit.

When a ramp is not the answer

A ramp does not solve every problem. If the rise is more than about 20 cm, a long ramp may not fit. For tall steps, consider a fixed ramp built by a mason, a platform lift, a stair lift, or moving the person's activities to the ground floor. See handrails and stair lifts and ground floor vs upper floor living. For bathrooms, some homes may benefit from removing the sill and creating a gentle slope in the floor, or fitting a curtain rather than a raised sill. See also bathroom layout for wheelchair and walker users and bathroom flooring and wet-floor safety.

When to ask a professional

An occupational therapist can measure your parent, assess their mobility aid and advise on ramp slopes, widths and alternatives, and can check that the ramp works for the wheelchair or walker in use. A physiotherapist can train your parent to cross thresholds safely. A mason or contractor should build any permanent ramp, and a building engineer may be needed in apartments. See a doctor if your parent has been tripping more often or finds it hard to lift their feet.