Anti-Slip Tape and Coatings for Bathroom and Kitchen Floors

How slipperiness works

A floor is slippery when there is too little friction between the shoe or the foot and the surface, particularly when a film of water, soap or oil lies between them. Smooth glazed tiles offer very little microscopic roughness for a wet foot to grip. Soap film, body oil and hard water minerals make it worse.

Anti-slip products add roughness or texture to the surface, so that the wet foot has something to hold. They do not make a floor safe on their own, but they can reduce the risk where it is highest: stepping in and out of the shower, by the toilet, in front of the basin, at the kitchen sink and at the door threshold.

Types of anti-slip tape and strips

Adhesive grit tape. A strip of tough backing coated with abrasive grit on top and strong adhesive underneath. You cut it to length and stick it to the floor. Similar tape is used on stairs, ladders and boats. It gives a very rough surface and is cheap, but the roughness can be harsh on bare feet and may scratch skin or trap dirt.

Clear tape with fine grit. A transparent version that leaves the tile pattern visible, with a lighter texture. It is gentler but less aggressive in grip.

Adhesive stickers or appliqués. Small shapes, such as circles, stars, strips or fish, with a textured surface. Often marketed for tubs. They are easy to place on a smooth tub base, but they can peel and leave sticky residue. They are also small, so the whole standing area needs several.

Tape for stair edges and thresholds. Wider strips with a contrasting colour or glow-in-the-dark stripe, used on step edges and room thresholds. Useful for people with poor eyesight, since they mark the edge. See stairs, steps and thresholds.

Textured rubber or vinyl strips. Thicker strips of rubber that are glued down. They last longer than light tape and give a softer feel, but they add height and may be a trip hazard if the edge lifts.

Types of liquid and chemical treatments

Anti-slip coatings (paint-on or roll-on). A liquid containing fine particles of silica, ceramic or polymer, applied with a brush or roller and left to harden. When dry, it leaves a slightly rough, transparent or tinted surface. Coatings can cover a larger area than tape, and look more even.

Chemical etching solutions. A liquid that slightly roughens the surface of tile or stone by dissolving a very thin layer of the glaze. It is applied, left for a few minutes and then washed away. It leaves a surface that feels slightly rougher and is not visible. Results vary with the type of tile and stone, and the treatment may need repeating every year or two. Some solutions contain acids that are hazardous to handle, and can damage tile finishes, grout and nearby metal fittings. Many professionals prefer to treat tiles themselves with protective equipment and a test patch.

Sealers with grip additives. Some sealers for natural stone contain grip particles. They are useful for stone floors where tape would look out of place.

Epoxy or polyurethane coatings with aggregate. Hard, durable floor coatings used in commercial kitchens and bathrooms, usually applied by contractors. They are tough but can be expensive and heavy in look.

Self-adhesive mats cut to size. Some floor mats are glued or stuck in place and function like a permanent tape mat. Check the edges.

Choosing: tape or coating?

• Small area, such as inside a shower tray: tape or appliqué strips are often better.
• Entire bathroom or kitchen floor: a coating or etching, done by a professional, is often better.
• Rented home or temporary need: removable tape and mats.
• Natural stone such as marble: etching or a stone-specific treatment, tested on a hidden patch first.
• Step edges and thresholds: contrast tape.
• A person with sensitive feet: a fine coating or soft rubber strips.

These are only rough guides, so always test a small patch.

Tapes are quick and reversible but visible. Coatings and etching are discreet but harder to reverse and depend on the floor type. Where the whole route is slippery, consider using both: coating or etching across the floor and a mat or tape inside the shower tray.

Applying tape or strips

1. Choose the area. Place strips where your parent actually stands and steps, and in the path from the door to the toilet and basin. Walk with them and mark the places. 2. Clean the floor very well. Remove soap scum, limescale and oil with a degreaser and scrub. Rinse and dry fully. Tape sticks poorly to damp or dirty surfaces. 3. Cut the tape to shape with rounded corners. Rounded corners are less likely to peel. 4. Peel and press firmly, starting at one end. Work out air bubbles with a roller or a flat tool. 5. Seal the edges with a bathroom-grade silicone, if the manufacturer advises, to stop water getting underneath. 6. Allow time to set before getting the surface wet, as the instructions say. 7. Check regularly. Lift of corners, dirt in the grit and fading of adhesive show it is time to replace the strip.

Leave a gap from the drain and avoid covering expansion joints. Keep tape well away from taps and the toilet base where water may pool.

Applying a coating or etching treatment

A coating or etch is a chemical or surface treatment, so follow the product directions carefully, and think about professional help.

• Test a hidden patch first to see how the tile looks and feels afterwards.
• Clean thoroughly.
• Ventilate the room and wear gloves, eye protection and a mask if the product requires it.
• Keep your parent out during application and curing time. Do not allow them back on the floor until the product has dried.
• Do not apply to cracked tiles. Repair first.
• Protect nearby fittings, such as metal frames and chrome taps, which acid can mark.
• Follow the drying time before wetting the floor. Not doing so can ruin the finish.
• Check the result by wetting a small area and testing with bare or socked feet while holding a stable support. If it still feels slippery, the process may need to be repeated or a different approach taken.

In an apartment complex, check the building rules before using strong chemicals, and take care that the liquid does not flow into the drains and neighbours' flats.

Things to watch for

• Rough on the feet. Heavy grit can scratch tender or diabetic skin. If your parent has neuropathy, a rougher surface can hide damage they cannot feel. Check their feet daily; see diabetic foot care at home.
• Hard to clean. Textured surfaces trap soap film, hair and dirt, which can lead to mould and smell. Scrub with a stiff brush.
• Dirt in the grit. Dirty tape loses its grip. Clean weekly.
• Peeling edges. A lifted edge is a trip hazard. Press down or replace it at once.
• Uneven coverage. Gaps between strips can leave slippery zones. Overlap or add more.
• Loss of effect over time. Coatings wear, and etches fade. Test the floor every few months.
• Wheelchairs and walkers. Textured strips can catch wheels or walker feet. Keep them away from the walking path of aids, or choose a fine texture.
• False confidence. Your parent may take more risks. Remind them to take care.

Combine with other changes

Anti-slip treatment works best as one part of a plan:

• Add a grab bar at the entrance.
• Provide a seat for bathing.
• Use non-slip mats inside the shower tray and beside the shower.
• Improve lighting.
• Keep the floor dry with a wiper after use.
• Choose footwear with a good tread. See choosing shoes for older feet.
• For a full approach to floors, see bathroom flooring and wet-floor safety.

When to ask a professional

A flooring contractor or tile specialist can advise on coatings and etching for your type of floor. An occupational therapist can check how your parent walks and recommend where grip is most needed, and whether textured surfaces could cause trouble for a walker or wheelchair. A doctor or podiatrist should see a parent with numb feet, diabetes or skin that breaks easily. If your parent keeps slipping despite these steps, ask a doctor or physiotherapist to check their balance, medicines and eyesight.